Is there any Christmas treat more maligned and turned into a punchline more frequently than the noble fruitcake? One rarely hears someone disrespecting figgy pudding or sugarplums (has anyone actually eaten either?). This classic confection used to be the center of the holiday table, but now is likened to a doorstop or paperweight. A wonderful, evocative holiday tradition is becoming more and more a memory with each passing Christmas as mothers become grandmothers and grandmothers pass on without passing on this delightful cake to a generation of ingrates. And this is a shame, because a properly made fruitcake can be quite delicious.